Its pared-down menu is full on flavour with an unfussy yet cosy interior. Welcome to bare., a new eatery in the heart of town that appeals with super snacks, bistro dishes and comfort food.
Bare. opened a couple of months ago in Shortmarket Street, a vibrant location that’s a stone’s throw from buzzy Bree. It’s the first restaurant experience to be run inhouse under the Neighbourgood banner, a property development company specialising in living and workspaces with carefully considered amenities and the promise of a “connected” community.
Dylan da Silva, head of Food & Beverage at Neighbourgood, is enjoying the challenge. The group operates cafés at their aparthotels and co-working spaces, but bare. is their first restaurant. With an interior of tall ceilings and playful terrazzo tables, dominated by terracotta, cream and dusty pink tones, there is a lot to like.
“It’s an approachable wine bar restaurant with bistro food,” explains Da Silva. Sharing or snacking items fill that menu gap nicely, with simple charcuterie, or a warm bowl of edamame in a sweet soy glaze. But a snack of warm green olives, Ascolone, is the winner – stuffed with Elgin pork belly terrine, they’re super tasty and a clever use of kitchen offcuts.
CASUAL MOOD
The bare. all-day menu is a single page of small plates, mains and desserts. A few new menu options will be introduced every three months, aside from specials. On the drinks list, the mood is casual, and there’s a bit of humour in the cocktail descriptions, so somebody can order a “Carrot Cake (don’t be a baked good)” or a “Spicy Passion (but it’s bare-able)”.
The eatery’s wine consultant was briefed to select food-friendly wines. A few weeks in, the small list has already changed some white, red and bubbly selections, and added a few natural wines, in tune with diner demand.
My glass of The Earth Beneath Our Feet blend of Chenin, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne was deliciously versatile, partnering Asian-style chicken wings, and perky panko zucchini fries dipped in beetroot hummus, from the Small Plates section. This chilled white holds its own with comforting homemade gnocchi, panfried in sage butter and resting on smoked butternut squash. Also in Main Courses, a pool of gravy and house-smoked Elgin pork belly takes centre stage, delivering juicy flavour and visual drama with “the best crackling of your life”. A Ryan Boon ribeye with herbed bone-marrow butter is another main option for bigger appetites.
COOKING FROM THE HEART
Chef Justin Zietsman is in the kitchen. With a career spent predominantly in large hotels and event catering, and more recently in boutique B&Bs, bare. is his first small restaurant. He’s enjoying the flexibility a 34-seater offers to become more produce-driven.
“When we interviewed Justin, he said he couldn’t possibly consider the job until he’d cooked for us,” says Da Silva. It’s easy to see how he landed the job. Zietsman’s plates are flavourful. Technical skill certainly, but mostly it feels like cooking from the heart. “It’s always been a dream of mine to run my own place.”
For dessert, we dutifully follow the chef’s recommendation and share what he calls “My dad’s favourite crème brûlée”. He explains: “Just after I graduated from college, I attempt my first crème brûlée, using Amarula. My dad loved it, so now it’s the only brûlée I make. It won’t leave this menu.” Cracking the flamed sugar crust to the soft custard below, it is everything you’d want in a food memory: rich, creamy and lingering.
It’s early days, but other diners seem in agreement. “We’re happy to be getting good feedback about service, aesthetics and vibe: our Google food reviews are all five-star, and that’s what you want,” says Da Silva. “We’d like to make sure that when locals come to dine and drink with us, we’re affordable so they come back.”
bare. | 90 Shortmarket St | 071-272-3499 | www.wearebare.co.za | @weare_bare | Tuesday to Saturday 12h00 to 23h00; Sunday 09h00-18h00, with live music.